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Caring for your Tillandsia aka Air Plant or Airplant
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A Tillandsia is a Bromeliad...but not all Bromeliads are Tillandsias. Bromeliad is the Family name. Tillandsia is the genus. Airplants are the common name for Tillandsias (sometimes called "Air Plants"). Not all Bromeliads are Airplants. Airplants grow without soil while most types of Bromeliads do best in soil. Orchids are also "Air Plants".
The following care instructions are specific to Tillandsia and come directly from our supplier.
AIR PLANTS ARE NOT TOTALLY SELF SUFFICIENT: the key factors are Light, Water, and Air Circulation.
LIGHT
Lighting for Tillandsias should be bright but filtered (April - October). They should not be left in the direct sun in the summer months (this will cause the plant to become sunburned ). Tillandsias love direct sun (November - March). Tillandsias may be grown in the house directly in front of a window. Fresh moving air is advisable, but remember, the most important care need is bright filtered light. BEWARE: Trees, overhangs and window tinting can rob your plants of needed light. Place plants no further away than 3 feet in front of a bright window.
ARTIFICIAL LIGHT
Full spectrum artificial light (fluorescent) is best. Plant should be no further than 36" from the fluorescent tubes and can be as close as 6". A four-tube 48" fixture works well. Bulbs can be any full spectrum type Gro-Lux, Repta-Sun, Vita-Lite, etc. Light should be set with a timer, 12 hours per day.
The following information about the different types of bulbs may be helpful:
INCANDESCENT PLANT GROW LIGHTS
Most incandescent plant lights are best used to highlight indoor plant groupings and have very little use as a true plant 'growing' light, even those that are labeled as a "grow light".
Newer color corrected incandescent spot grow bulbs are suitable for adding supplemental light or highlighting to a single plant, such as an orchid or indoor bonsai tree.
However, you should never place an incandescent bulb closer than 24 inches over your plants. Incandescents burn very hot and will burn plants when placed close enough for them to appreciably affect plant growth.
Most incandescent bulbs have an average life span of 750 hours.
SODIUM LAMP (HIGH-PRESSURE SODIUM LAMP)
High-pressure sodium lamps operate by igniting sodium, mercury, and xenon gases within a sealed, ceramic arc tube. Sodium lamps emit light energy in the yellow/red/orange regions of the spectrum; the red spectrum stimulates flowering, and fruit production. Many indoor gardeners switch to sodium lamps when it is time to induce flowering or fruiting of their plants.
SON-AGRO
A sodium bulb which, according to the manufacturer, Philips Lighting, produces 30% more blue light than standard sodium bulbs. The 430-watt SON AGRO also emits 6% more light than the standard 400-watt sodium lamp.
METAL HALIDE (MH) LAMP
A high-intensity discharge lamp in which the light is produced by arcing electricity through a mixture of metal halides. The light produced by metal halide lamps is in the white-blue spectrum, which encourages vegetative growth and "bushiness," while discouraging upward growth. This is the bulb to use in the first, vegetative phase of plant growth
WATERING YOUR AIRPLANTS
Thoroughly wet your Tillandsia 2-3 times per week; more often in a hot, dry environment; less often in a cool, humid one. Plants should be given enough light and air circulation to dry in no longer than 4 hours after watering. Spray misting is insufficient as the sole means of watering but may be beneficial between regular waterings in dry climates to increase the humidity.
If the plant is in a shell, be sure to empty the water out. Tillandsias will not survive in standing water.
Under-watering is evidenced by an exaggerating of the natural concave curve of each leaf.
New Information: After wetting your plants thoroughly, turn them upside down and gently shake them. I have found that the water that collects near the base is detrimental if left to long. I have lost many stricta that way.
One last thing about watering your air plant. It is much better to water in the morning than at night. Air plants absorb the carbon monoide from the air at night instead of the day time. If the plant is wet, it does not breath therefore unless it can dry quickly at night, plan on morning baths.
AIR CIRCULATION
Following each watering, Tillandsias should be given enough light and air circulation to dry in 4 hours or less. Do not keep plants constantly wet or moist.
TEMPERATURE
Optimum temperature range for Tillandsias is 50 - 90 degrees F.
I have kept my plants outside during 40 degree F. weather but only for a night or two knowing it would be warm during the day.
FERTILIZER
Use Bromeliad fertilizer (17-8-22) twice a month. It is GREAT for blooming and reproduction! Other water-soluble fertilizers can be used at 1/4 strength (Rapid Grow, Miracle-Grow, etc.) if Bromeliad fertilizer is not available.
Note Here: If you use pond water or aquarium water, only fertilize once a month.
GROWTH CYCLE
Bromeliad Tillandsia have a life cycle of one plant growing to maturity and blooming. Before, during or after blooming (depending on the species) your plant will start producing young (PUPS), most plants will produce between 2 - 8 pups. Each plant will flower once in its lifetime, remember that each pup is a plant and it will bloom. Flowers can last from several days to many months, depending on the species, and different species bloom at different times depending also on its care and environment. You can expect blooms from mid winter through mid summer depending on the plant.
If you leave your plant to clump just remove the leaves of the mother plant as she starts to dry up, just pull the leaves out with a gentle sideways tug, if the leaf resists, its not dead yet, so just trim any dried areas instead. Once you've fully removed the mother plant, the gap that's left will quickly be filled in by the other plants growing & spreading.
REMOVING AIR PLANT PUPS
To remove the pups, they should be at least 1/3 to 1/2 the size of the mother plant. Hold both mother and pup at their bases and gently twist in a downward motion. If this does not happen easily, you may need to remove the pup by cutting downward as close to the mother as possible. Do not discard the mother plant yet, as long as she is still alive she will continue to produce more pups for you. Often taking several years after blooming before she finally dies.
MOUNTING YOUR TILLANDSIA
Tillandsias can be grown basically anywhere, on rocks, in a seashell or on coral, in ceramic or pottery, attached to wood (not pressure treated wood this is impregnated with copper, and copper will kill your plant). When considering what you are going to do with your plant don't forget that you have to be able to water it and it has to be placed somewhere that it will get sufficient light.
Try not to put Tillandsias in containers that hold water, they need to dry out. If you do place your plant in something that holds water, empty out the excess after watering your plant. The same thing applies when mounting your plant. Do not surround your plant with Moss. It will hold too much water and will rot your plant.
ATTACHING YOUR PLANT
You can use glue, wire, fishing line, twisty ties, nails or staples. Nails and staples can only be used on plants with a woody stolon or with sufficient roots. DO NOT staple your plant on its fleshy parts as it will kill it. Try to use a waterproof glue such as E6000. Du not not use superglue , or copper wire as this will also kill your plant.
CARING FOR YOUR NEW PLANTS AFTER SHIPPING
When you receive our plants, please remove from the shipping package and soak for 30 minutes to 1 hour, preferably in non-tap water and vitamin b bath. Shake gently to remove excess water, Place in bright light and allow to dry. Do not fertilize plants for 3 weeks following thier arrival but be sure to follow directions for Light and Water.
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